VirusCage [OP] Well in the secondary immune response
Joined:Jul 5, 2017Member:#223232Messages:1,420First Name:BruceAllison Park, PAVehicle:2017 TRD Sport DCSB 6MT 1995 Landcruiser 2015 Highlander XLEHood deflector, window vent visors, stainless steps, kb voodoo bedrack, bed cubby cap seals, meso ext fuse cover, meso lower switch panel, 4xhella horns, power tray aux panel, 2wd lo mod, rear FU lights, bed led lights, BPF SKID and Hook, rear view mirror usb power ports, front and rear dash cam, front and rear cam anytime mod, cherry air freshener! Anytime 400watt, inside 110v outlet, BPF Skid plate, BPF shackle mount,
Sorry wasn't sure where this would be best...so general automotive seemed okayish...
Sears X Cargo Lock Cylinder replacement:So long story short, I bought a used sears X cargo dirt cheap on Craigslist. Why so cheap…no keys…
Good news: You can order new lock cylinders on etrailer and other sites.
Bad news: You procrastinate and need working lock cylinders NOW.
Solution: Make standard cabinet locks work
Many of you are patient and that’s all good, but if you are not here is an option.
I hope my write up and pictures help someone. Sorry I did not take more pictures, I will try to explain as much as possible.
Parts:
Sears X Cargo or any brand Thule etc missing keys…mine was $25.00
Cabinet lock available at most hardware stores, also obviously onlone…but this was something I needed/wanted to do last minute. ~$10.00
//www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-5-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407890
//www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-7-8-in-Chrome-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407884
//www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407876
Washers as needed and various sizes
Tools:
Drill with assorted bits
Wrench
Rubber mallet
Screwdrivers
A. Standard steps.
1. (I did not do this, this makes sense now!) measure old lock cylinder assrembly and latch point to see which length is closest. Unfortunately I just bought the 1 1/8 size but was able to make it fit, and learned in the process!
2. Remove the old lock assembly, carefully undo the attachment nut, and be sure to keep any latches, and latch pieces. As you can see the latch for the old one does not match the one provided with the new lock. Also note that the old latch and lock need to be drilled apart, be careful so that you can salvage the latch pieces.
3. I also had to ream out the old latch point/alignment piece that fits on the lock assembly.
4. Since I did not measure ahead of time….see step 1….I had to use the washers and the old lock nut to space my new lock assembly correctly, so that the latch would engage....sort of…
****1 is a supplied trim ring, adds space to align the latch in my case, 2 is the old nut being reused and the new lock cylinder, 3 is the first piece up against the inside of the cargo box and has a spiked barb to bite into the plastic as you tighten it, 4 goes on after the old latch alignment pieces from the previous pictures, 5 is the cam i chose to use since is allows more rotation, 6 is the old latch piece to be compatible with the old latch.5. I had it all assembled, but the lock latch and the cargo latch point do not actually line up…so on to phase two.
B. Uh oh steps should have done step A – 1…
6. Ok…so the spacing is still off…rather than do something silly like go back to the hardware store and get the right length assemblies…WASHERS
7. I am a bit of a pack rat…NOT HOARDER…pack rat 5th generation…so I have tons of washers. Simply remove the latch brackets and add washers to make up the spacing difference inside.
8. And VOILA a working cargo box for ~$35.00
dirtnsmores A camping truck
Joined:Sep 24, 2015Member:#165069Messages:2,904Gender:MaleFirst Name:MikeSouthern CaliforniaVehicle:06 DCLB PrerunnerOME885/5100, DAKAR MED-DUTY, SOFTOPPER
Very cool. I might get one of these. Thanks for the writeup