| 03-07-2013, 01:50 PM | #1 |
BESIKTAS - cArsi Drives: Space Grey - 2008 xi E92 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Boston - MA | Crankshaft Position Sensor Hi Guys, So my first major problem with my 08 E92 328xi. The other day when I was on the highway going about 60mph, the car just kind of stumbled and the check engine light came on. And yesterday when I was at the red light, the car just stopped. When I tried to start it again, it struggled a little bit then turned back on. I took it to my mechanic and he said it is the "Crankshaft Position Sensor". I searched here but nothing came on regarding that sensor. My question is, Does that make sense? He gave me a price for $400 with parts and labor. He said it will take 2 days to replace this. Thanks for everyone's input in advance. |
| 03-07-2013, 04:10 PM | #2 |
RemovedUser Guest | I think the sensor is about 100 bucks, you get to it from under the car, 300 in labor sounds steep, should take no longer then 1 hour. |
| 03-07-2013, 05:16 PM | #3 |
Captain Drives: 2011 e92 M3 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: SoCal | I recently had the same thing happen with my dad's 00 e320. The part online costs less than $50, and according to other forum members about 20 minutes worth of time (for that car). Yet, the mechanic charged me $400 including part and $110 diagnostic fee, which is a ripoff but I didn't want to pay $200 to tow it home. Try searching for a DIY if you want to do a project... |
| 03-07-2013, 07:22 PM | #4 |
Captain Drives: 2006 BMW 330xi Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Jacksonville Beach, FL | I paid around $400 to have this done, it looked like a real PITA. Indy says the xfer case gets in the way on the x-drive variants and you have to tear a bunch of stuff out like the intake manifold. |
| 03-07-2013, 07:26 PM | #5 |
RemovedUser Guest | You get to it from the bottom all you have to remove is the engine plastic underbody cover, its a nearly blind install its a connector and a sensor with a O ring that goes into a hole on the block. You just feel around, remove the bolt on the sensor pull the sensor out, disconnect the electrical connector, lubricate the new oring with engine oil, pop it in, put the bolt and tighten. The sensor also is not 50 bucks, its closer to 100 its the same price as the VANOS camshaft position sensors which I replaced, very similar design. This is assuming you are getting the sensor for MSRP, the dealer or indy might mark up the price on top of that, in such case it is recommend to order the part online @ bmwpartspros.com or getbmwparts.com I don't know about the x-drive stuff, then again I think BMW's are too complicated to begin with all wheel drive is just crazy, in such case removing the manifold means the mechanic tried to get to it from the top, much bigger job, especially on a E90 330/325i because of the external oil separator, 335i/328i don't have this much easier. Last edited by RemovedUser; 03-08-2013 at 01:22 AM.. |
| 03-08-2013, 06:37 AM | #6 |
BESIKTAS - cArsi Drives: Space Grey - 2008 xi E92 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Boston - MA | Thank you everyone. Quote: Originally Posted by nate5ks I paid around $400 to have this done, it looked like a real PITA. Indy says the xfer case gets in the way on the x-drive variants and you have to tear a bunch of stuff out like the intake manifold. That is exactly what he said he is going to do. Quote: Originally Posted by index1489 You get to it from the bottom all you have to remove is the engine plastic underbody cover, its a nearly blind install its a connector and a sensor with a O ring that goes into a hole on the block. You just feel around, remove the bolt on the sensor pull the sensor out, disconnect the electrical connector, lubricate the new oring with engine oil, pop it in, put the bolt and tighten. The sensor also is not 50 bucks, its closer to 100 its the same price as the VANOS camshaft position sensors which I replaced, very similar design. This is assuming you are getting the sensor for MSRP, the dealer or indy might mark up the price on top of that, in such case it is recommend to order the part online @ bmwpartspros.com or getbmwparts.com I don't know about the x-drive stuff, then again I think BMW's are too complicated to begin with all wheel drive is just crazy, in such case removing the manifold means the mechanic tried to get to it from the top, much bigger job, especially on a E90 330/325i because of the external oil separator, 335i/328i don't have this much easier. I checked around and only was able to find the part for $107. Which my mechanic quoted that for $120. So I'll let him order the part since with the shipping it will cost the same. The way you write it sounds very simple. Even my mechanic had to search online to find out how to replace that part. Maybe I should just take it to a dealer for this one? |
| 04-11-2013, 02:10 PM | #7 |
Private Drives: 2008 BMW 335xi Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Boston, MA | Anybody doing it DO NOT try and go from the bottom. At least not on a 335xi e92. You literally can't see anything from down there. I used my friend's lift and tried, and couldn't see jack. Then I went at it from the top and it took way under an hour. Just pull the cabin air filter cowl off, then the intake, and it's right there. It's at an awkward angle, but nothing terribly hard. |
| 04-15-2013, 05:39 PM | #8 |
BESIKTAS - cArsi Drives: Space Grey - 2008 xi E92 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Boston - MA | Quote: Originally Posted by beantown256 Anybody doing it DO NOT try and go from the bottom. At least not on a 335xi e92. You literally can't see anything from down there. I used my friend's lift and tried, and couldn't see jack. Then I went at it from the top and it took way under an hour. Just pull the cabin air filter cowl off, then the intake, and it's right there. It's at an awkward angle, but nothing terribly hard. My friend helped me change this and he changed the exact same way. Hope this helps folks in the future. My mechanic wanted $400 for this. |
| 07-12-2014, 03:55 PM | #9 |
Registered Drives: 2007 328xi coupe Join Date: May 2012 Location: Seattle/Virginia | Is this sensor on the front or back of the engine? |
| 07-14-2014, 11:54 AM | #10 |
First Lieutenant Drives: 2022 M4, 2007 328xi Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: North Carolina | Hopefully his diagnosis is correct. The eccentric shaft sensor (which you have to remove the valvecover to get to and is a common issue on these vehicles) can cause these same issues and the part alone is approx. $400. Do you know what code(s) he pulled? |
| 08-06-2014, 11:24 AM | #11 |
BESIKTAS - cArsi Drives: Space Grey - 2008 xi E92 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Boston - MA | Quote: Originally Posted by bhmax16 Hopefully his diagnosis is correct. The eccentric shaft sensor (which you have to remove the valvecover to get to and is a common issue on these vehicles) can cause these same issues and the part alone is approx. $400. Do you know what code(s) he pulled? I honestly don't remember the code. But it did fix the issue and no problems since then. |
| 08-11-2014, 01:42 PM | #12 |
Mr. Monaco Drives: Slow.. Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Jersey | $300-$400, including sensor, for this on xi isn't that bad of a deal honestly __________________ |
| 08-12-2014, 06:26 PM | #13 |
First Lieutenant Drives: 2008 JB e92 335i Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Los Angeles, Koreatown | Quote: Originally Posted by bhmax16 Hopefully his diagnosis is correct. The eccentric shaft sensor (which you have to remove the valvecover to get to and is a common issue on these vehicles) can cause these same issues and the part alone is approx. $400. Do you know what code(s) he pulled? Just got this last night and did some searching. The code is PO335 |
| 10-18-2018, 04:25 PM | #14 |
New Member Drives: 330i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: NY | If anyone is having trouble finding the crankshaft position sensor location, like I had, here�s a DIY video for help.
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| 01-23-2020, 06:25 AM | #15 |
Registered Drives: 2007 E90 Sedan N52 Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: St. Paul, Missouri | N52 Engine Crank Position Sensor Replacement Anyone with an N52 engine needing to replace the crank position sensor can just remove the alternator and you get full access to replace any hoes under the intake manifold as well as you can get to the start connections and the crank sensor bolt and wires. I already did this and the alternator comes off very easily on the N52 engines. I assume the N54's are the same or close. |
| 01-23-2020, 06:41 AM | #16 |
Major General Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Ottawa, Canada | Quote: Originally Posted by billscudman Anyone with an N52 engine needing to replace the crank position sensor can just remove the alternator and you get full access to replace any hoes under the intake manifold as well as you can get to the start connections and the crank sensor bolt and wires. I already did this and the alternator comes off very easily on the N52 engines. I assume the N54's are the same or close. Just remember to replace the four alternator bolts. They are aluminum and single use. |
| 01-25-2020, 03:05 AM | #17 |
Registered Drives: 2008 328i Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Cali | I just replaced the CPS on my N51. Took me less than an hour. I went from the top. Took the cowl and whole airbox and intake tube off the the throttle body. At that point, you should be able to look in from the drivers side at the back of the motor and see the CPS bolt. I used an 8 mm 12pt socket, some extensions and a ratchet to loosen the bolt. At this point you need to have some skinny arms, or use some duct tape to cover the wire looms below the throttle body, because you have to reach into the bay, from the front, around the bottom of the intake manifold and wiggle the sensor loose. And it won't be easy. But once it pops out, you can swing it around the intake manifold and separate the sensor from the connector. You will need to rig up something to go back into the area and pick out the old seal. Putting in the new sensor will require two people(well, it makes it a hell of a lot easier.) One can reach around the front and put the new sensor in (make sure to lube the new seal really well) and the other person can look in from the driver's side and be the spotter. You need to line up the bolt hole, keep the sensor from moving, and start threading the new bolt. It will take a few tries, but after the sensor is seated and secured, then reconnect the harness. Button everything up, clear your codes and fire it up. |